I first discovered this book by William Finnegan because of an excerpt that was published in New Yorker magazine. He is a writer for the magazine and an avid surfer. The story in the magazine focused on his life in the tough public school system and surfing in Honolulu. I am a product of the Hawaii public school system as well and really got what he was saying. Years later as an adult he returned to Hawaii and lived to surf at Honolua Bay and lived in Lahaina. My old stomping grounds so of course I needed to read about that.
The book is about surfing yes. But what struck me was the extreme intelligence and the intellectual way he wrote about surfing. Even if you have no background in surfing, you can't help but be fascinated by the details of his storytelling.
I'm a surfer wannabe and someday I'm going to find my inner surfer.
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